Archive for category clothes rajasthan

Rajasthani Women Traditional Attire – Ghaghra, Kanchali, Blouse and Odhani

Rajasthani Women Traditional Attire

Rajasthani Women Traditional Attire

The costume and dresses of native Rajasthani people are spectacular combination of cultural lineage and weather proof designing. The garments are loose and flowing clothes and generally cut to cover most of the body. This prevent sunburns from scorching sun rays.

The women of rajasthan shows preference for a brightness of costume. The beauty of clothes of rajasthani women reflect the culture of the state. From sixteen century to nineteen century the rajasthani women wear constitutes:

GHAGRA

It is long colourful ankle length skirt with narrow waist that increase in width like a umbrella at base.

KANCHALI OR KURTIS

The rajasthanin female wear kurti or kanchali on upper most part.

BLOUSE

Kanchali and kurtis together makes blouse .

ODHANI

Rajasthani women wear odhani or chunari on their head . It is long cotton cloth used as veil. It is ornamented with embroidery and mirror work.

The women of higher status and class wear dupatta and patka.

Baleora, Hansli, Jhela, Khag and Bajubandh – Rajasthani Male Jewellery

It is a well known quote that the gems have life in them, their colours speak what words fail of.

The craftsmanship of jewelers of Rajasthan is renowned all over the world. The multi-dimensional ornaments worn by Rajasthani male are so attractive that they seem to be sparkling treasures from the land of royalty.

Some of the common type of Rajasthani male jewellery has been described briefly below:

BALEORA

It is gold necklace  that consists of seven chains that are further adorned with seven clasp units which are set with gemstones.

Hansli - A Neck Collar Jewellery for Rajasthani Male

Hansli - A Neck Collar Jewellery for Rajasthani Male

A screw is built into back clasp to fasten the entire piece. The necklace has central pendant called as Jugni decorated with gemstones.

Another neck ornament is GOP and Jagwali. When a circular torque is introduced in this stunning pendant, it is called as Jugavali.

Motimala or manak mela is one beautiful necklace which is made of pearls, emerald and rubies.

HANSLI

It is rest on collar bone and its basic form is a rigid circular torque with a hollow or solid construction.

JHELA OR  MURKHI

They are small earring that are worn on earlobes and are often shaped like six petaled flower.

KHAG OR KANDHE-KA GAHNA

It is made of gold, its facade side set with gemstones and emerald  on reverse. It is worn either on one shoulder or on both.

Bajubandh - An armlet Jewel for Rajasthani People

Bajubandh - An armlet Jewel for Rajasthani People

BAJUBANDH

It is an armlet usually of floral motifs and designs which are marked with precious stones.

Some of the types of jewellery are Kada or bracelets, that are made of gold and silver. Beenti are the rings worn in the fingers. Belts buckles are also ornamental in Rajasthan.

Rajasthan is well known for gold and silver enameling. One of  the traditional art, known as Meenakari, is mainly done in Nathdwara.

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Sarpatti, Kalgi, Sarpech and Turra – Rajasthani Male’s Turban Ornaments

Sarpech - Rajasthani Males Turban Ornament

Sarpech - Rajasthani Male's Turban Ornament

Jewellery is an item of personal adornment that is worn by a person. It may be made from gemstones or precious stones.

Jewellery word is derived from latin word ‘jocale’ meaning plaything. It has been made to adorn nearly every bodypart from hairpins to toe rings.

As such, Designer Jewellery is mostly associated with women, but even men’s jewellery comes in decorative and appealing style.  From past few years jewellery has lost its impact in a men’s life, yet some kinds of jewellery especially silver jewellery is still worn by rural men in the state of Rajasthan.

Jewellery is worn as accessory with clothes, Turban is also one of the those clothes that attracts ornaments. Some of the Turban ornaments are sarpech, kalgi, sarpatti and turra.

KALGI

It is a  type of Rajasthani jewellery for a men, that is mainly a collection of feathers. It inspired by feathered crest of wonderful birds, belonging to the region. The distinguished Kalgi design used to possess three black heron feather. The members of royal family used to wear it. Sometimes metal sheets are used in place of feathers.

SARPATTI

It is another type of turban ornament which came in vogue in late Eighteen century. It is essentially a synthesis of sarpech and armband and consists of hinged  units, there number ranging from three to seven with a kalgi attached to central unit.  At times, a single pendant is hanged from the sarpatti.

SARPECH

The word is made of two words  – head  and screw. It is shaped like single vertical feather with a curved tip. Crafted from metal it was set with gems  on observer’s side; even the reverse side is enamelled or decorated with precious stones. It is worn by tucking its gold stem usually called quill into the folds of turban.

TURRA

It is often shaped like fan, and is used as an ornament in turban.

It is well said “Jewellery takes people’s mind off your wrinkles”, and all the beauty of a turban lies in its ornaments.

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Multi-coloured Handkerchiefs of Rajasthan

Handkerchief (handkercher or hanky) is a form of kerchief typically  a hemmed square of thin fabric  that can be carried in a pocket or purse and used for hygiene purpose. Sometimes it is a decorative accessory in a suit pocket.

Although  handkerchief is an item of western countries but with passage of time  it has even become a symbol of love and affection  in Indian culture.

Handkerchief - A Small Hand Towel Used As Clothes Utility

Handkerchief - A Small Hand Towel Used As Clothes Utility

Purpose

It is useful for every class -low or high, gender whether male, female or children. Children can carry things around in it and can even use it as substitute for a bandage overall small injury. When used as an accessory to a man suit it is known as Pocket Square.

Colorful Handkerchief in Rajasthan

Green colour represents that person is good in health and person bearing white coloured handkerchiefs denotes ill health. Red coloured handkerchiefs is signal of danger and immediate meeting is necessary.

Varieties

There are wide range and  types of handkerchiefs that are made in Rajasthan. Multi-coloured, embroidered, lehariya and mothda pattern, tie -die style of  handkerchiefs are made in Rajasthan.

One other form of handkerchief is Napkin.

Bandana

It is a larger type of handkerchief which is often printed in vibrant colours and with a paisley pattern. It is often used to hold hair back as a fashionable accessory.

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Pagri (Turban) and Safa – Types, Tradition and Significance in Rajasthan

Pagri is a cloth piece which is coiled round the head. The color of pagri generally denotes the mood and ambiance. Bright colored pagri denotes festive ceremonies while dark coloured like maroon, khaki represent gloomy time. In Nagaur, yellow colored pagri was popular.

TYPES OF PAAG, PAGRI AND SAFA

Umrao Paag of Udaipur, Royal Saafa of Jaipur, Royal Jaswant Pech of Jodhpur, Samodh, Calcutti,  Toki, Dholpuri, Jalori and Malani are the various forms and names of them which binds the Rajasthani culture.

If the corner end part of cloth of saafa is coloured, then it is known as Chhla. If made of zari then it is called as Pecha. Kantop is name given to iron piece pagri.

Chanderi, Lehariya, Mothda, Pachranga and Satranga are the various types of pagri available in various colours in Rajasthan.

Nagauri Paag is quite famous as it was exported to other countries. In royal families of Jaipur, the popular Paag were – Paag lafdar and Shahigarh paag  which still hold place in royal attire.

Turban (Pagri) - Traditional Head Wear of Rajasthani Males

Turban (Pagri) - Traditional Head Wear of Rajasthani Males

Safa - Wedding Head Wear for Indian People

Safa - Wedding Head Wear for Indian People

Difference Between Pagri & Saafa

The method of tying safa and pagri is entirely different. Safa is 10 yards long and 1.25 yard broad while Pagri is 20 yards long and 7 inch broad cloth.

Significance of Pagri – Tradition of Rasam Pagri

Rasam pagri take place when a man passes away and his oldest son takes over the family responsibility by tying pagri in front of large gathering of people.  Jaipur Pagri shows an article of faith that represents  honor, self respect, courage and spirituality.

In Jodhpur, bridegroom wear saafa  on occasion of marriage which is 27 feet long and 41 inch broad. The safa which was worn by warroirs are known as Amarshahi safa.

Present Scenario

It has become a custom to honor any guest leader or an artist with pagri or safa. Nowdays safa and pagris of shiffon, voil, satin, cotton and ojaria are available in market.

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PAGRI, PAAG AND SAAFA – Different Class and Community Headgear

A Little Boy Wearing a Heavy Pargi

A Little Boy Wearing a Heavy Pargi

To prevent and protect from the  shortfalls of seasons the use of wearing Topis, Safas, Paag and Pagri started. In later years it became a social custom to cover head with some cloth in any form. Certain examples clearly depicted this trend which can be seen in countries like America, Rome and Egypt.

HISTORY

Epic period showed the tradition of wearing Pagri. In Rajathan it is known by the name of PAGRI,  PAAG,  SAAFA, PECHU and  POTIA while in gujarat it is called as PHOLIA.

Pagri, Safa and Paag are still prevalent in different pattern in different area of Rajasthan. They are different according to various class and community.

RAJPUTS

In different areas of Rajasthan, Rajput pagri is different from other class. On different occasions they wear lehariya, mothda and various other types. The curves and turns are entirely distinguishable from other class. It shows their real pride and honor. It hangs down the shoulder.

Rich Landlord Wearing a Costly Turban

Rich Landlord Wearing a Costly Turban

BISHNOI

They wear white saafa and white clothes. The dry climate of Rajasthan made their clothes light coloured.

BRAHMIN

In Hindu culture they are treated as pious. They wore pink colored safa or pagri.

GAWARIA

These are local tribal class which are nomadic by nature. They wear satin or violet pagri which was 30 foot long in length which has space to place comb, mirror etc.

BATT

They are known as Baldia Batt. Although they wear light coloured pagri but at time of fights they wear special kind which has knots all over it.In the centre of pagri there is a bronze metal piece to prevent from any injury.

Old Man Wearing a Turban with Pride

Old Man Wearing a Turban with Pride

JOGI

They wear saffron colored saafa as they are saint class and other ones wear multicoloured cheap priced safa.

RABERI

This class keep moving for collecting food and fodder for their livestock. They mostly wear red coloured saafa which was made of cotton coloured. Its too long that it seem it covered the full body.

KALKI

Their pagri is passed from generation to generation. They mostly wear white pagri.

KUMAR

Potter class earn their living by making utensils of sand. This class wear red colored pagri and on marriage ceremonies white band is also put on red pagri so that  bridegroom can be easily noticeable.

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Khanksanuma – The Traditional Topi (Head Wear) of Rajasthan

Topi is a light weighted hat worn in tropical countries for protection from sun. A king as well as a common man, all love to wear topi.

HISTORY

The impulse to cover head dates back to Vedic era. Topi is a object to protect  the wearer from scorching heat, dust and cold. Even early leaders wore  topis which made them popular among masses. Gandhi Topi which was made of khadi was quite famous till date. Emulating origin of Gandhi topi, Maulana Azad and Sheikh Abdullah sported traditional kashmiri topis.

Bikaner Kids Cap - A Very Old Photo

Bikaner Kids Cap - A Very Old Photo

RAJASTHANI TOPI

From the second stage of nineteen century, the trend of covering head with topi started instead of Shafa or Pagri. Generally these topis are ordinary and simple but royal kings and royal class used to topis made of satin, silk and fancy material. Intricate needle work was done to highlight it. Fancy work like Gota was also stitched to make it festive.

Khanksanuma Topi

A special type of topi known as Khanksanuma Topi which was quite popular in those times. Its shape was like olden comb and its name was originated from  the   word  comb.

The topi with four pieces is known as Chukuliya and two piece topi  is called as Dupaliya.

Significance of Wearing Topi

Topi is alive example of unity in diversity. It is the symbol of honor, pride and prestige. It represents freedom and equality.

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Jodhpuri Coat – Elegant Designed Rajasthani Men Wear

Jodhpuri Coat - Elegant Designed Rajasthani Men Wear

Jodhpuri Coat - Elegant Designed Rajasthani Men Wear

A Coat is a long garment worn by both men and women for warmth, protection and fashion. It typically have long sleeves, open from the front, closing by means of buttons, zippers, hooks, loops, fasteners, togglers and a belt.

HISTORY

In Iran two garments were introduced to the history of clothing – Trousers and Fitted Coats.
An early use of coat in England was the coat of men as tunic like garment of metal of rings usually knee or mid calf length.

JODHPURI COAT

A coat worn by men in Rajasthan is of shorter length than sherwani. Jodhpuri coat  or Prince is mostly known as a Lounge coat. Its length is similar to a suit jacket. The stand up collar is focal part of this garment. When worn with matching trousers, its impact can set one apart from ordinary.

FABRIC

Dark wool blends are normally preferred for this garment.

JODHPURI SUIT

Jodhpuri suit comes with Jodhpuri coat and trousers. It is piece of splendid combination of fabric with embroidery. Pattern of embroidery starts from collar and neckline of designer suit and spreads to the shoulder of coat. Needle work is used to highlight lighter shades of Jodhpuri coat.

Colour depicts the elegance and sparkle of attire teamed with matching pants and fine neckline.

It is traditional wear of people of Jodhpur in Rajasthan. It looks cool at formal occasions and ceremonies.

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Sherwani – Ethnic Wedding Wear of Rajasthani Men

Sherwani - A Bridegroom's Wear in Rajasthan

Sherwani - A Bridegroom's Wear in Rajasthan

Sherwani is a long coat, which is buttoned upto the collar and usually stretches below the knee. It adds style, grace, elegance and sofstication of men. Rajasthani men wear sherwani over kurta and  churidar pajma.

ORIGIN

It can be traced back in Central Asia during the times when it was dress code of  Turkish and Persian nobles in Delhi sultanate and Mughal Empire. In the late Eighteen century,  this attire did not restrict to nobles but become the traditional dress of common men.

Basic Requirement

Fitting is the utmost important factor as it make the entire look. It holds a prominent place in the wardrobe of male wear. It is worn on special occasions  such  as engagements, festivals, traditional rituals and ceremonies. It resembles Achakan or Doublet. Sherwanis are perpetual favorites  for dressing gowns on their marriage day.

FABRIC

Silk is the most important material used for sherwani. Quality of fabric and tailoring is the most important areas to be catered  while stitching sherwani.

DESIGNING

Intricate embroidery  like Zardosi, sequin and stone work and suroski crystals are used to make it attractive.

COLOUR

The traditional colour is offwhite but nowdays new shades have crept up like maroon, black and dark blue.

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Rajasthan’s Traditional Children Wear: Suthna and Ghughi

Suthna – Children Wear

In earlier period there were no custom of preserving children costumes, they used to generally get destroyed. In the middle period, kurta was worn as shown by idols and painings of that period. Underneath  they wear pajma or cloth covering their lower portion which was known as Suthna. In winters they used to wear Ghughi.

Ghughi Patterns

The upper cloth of ghughi was of satin and fancy cloth material, sometimes it was of Kashmiri cloth. On its corners, minakari stem was embroidered. The upper portion was  like cap which covered children head. In the cap, big cloth was attached which reaches the ankle and covers the whole body.

Ghughi used to be worn by both boy and girl. The nineteen century costume are still prevalent in  Jaipur and Udaipur royal class. It consists of kurta, pajama and top. They are generally made of silken and satin material in which gota flowers are stitched. Efforts are made to make these costume more attractive and decorative.

Teenage Boys wear dhoti-angarkhi, pajama –angarkhi while girls wear ghaghra blouse. Odhani’s were not worn by little girl as it was tradition to wear odhani after marriage.

We are in process of collating some more information and photos on Rajasthan kid’s wear and will post the same in coming days.

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